Surprise charm: Lanka

SL was always out of radar when planning trips out of India but as fate had it, we had few options of transit to for the wretched China route* and we chose this as the economical and geographically sensible option..

*A lot has been written about China zero Covid policy, but like everything about China, it is a see it to believe it phenomenon. While I harp about the good things the country has done for its people, I’m afraid this one seems to be taking it back in time.

As I said, our core was China travel and it took up all if our resources: time, mental peace and money. Which meant we had nothing left to plan for Sri Lanka. The plan was to survive the China travel planning (scavenging flights), testing requirements and documentation load (1.3kg of documentation for 4 of us) and if alive, we see what happens in Lanka.

In midst of our tense time, Lanka turned out to be such a surprise charm. 

The Sri Lankan air warmth glided in right at take off. 

 Ground reality: we were a really tense lot, with our codes from the Chinese embassy being delayed upto the aircraft taxiing, but the gin they serve was soothing for the anxious nerves. This comes from a non gin person. Don’t get me wrong, the aircraft is sans those jazzy screens or buttons that those Middle East carriers pamper you with, but the Sri Lankan hospitality is genuine. People are a jovial lot, the crew included, and you could perhaps invite them to join you for a drink as well.

Sunset @ The Ocean

The hotels are a steal these days for international visitors, because of where the currency stands. Though our hotel was not the top star hotel, it had everything we asked for and more. The price reminded me of what I paid for a shoddy hotel backpacking 15 years back. Highly recommended: The Ocean: for its location, views, breakfast and restaurants around.

Fortunately, regardless of the picture portrayed by media, there are no security issues or active riots to report on the ground.

It took a while for us to gauge and come to terms with reality (and safety). While we had come with the mindset of : 

(a) Cocooning in the hotel to avoid the reported riots 

(b) Getting the 2 tests done for our China travel 

(c) Escaping as soon as we can

As we saw more and came to terms with the reality, our confidence grew. In terms of economics, the country is in a wretched state, yet the spirit is still resilient. More than that, the citizens’ calm and maturity won us. Everyone knows that it is a dire state indeed and it is a tough road ahead, but they are overall a peaceful lot (Yes, I still say this after the adventure at President’s residence that we saw in the news and its history) . Battling inflation, fuel shortage and power cuts, people are still looking to put their best foot forward.

Said the gentleman behind me in the supermarket queue, who took me for a local and started a conversation on how the price of commodity X and Y had skyrocketed since last month. 'Corrupt or not, the political clergy may have done their bit, but lets forget all that: now it is the time to explore all options, and get to work'.

We had the weekend here, so thought to make use of it.

Marvelous art: at Gangaramaya

Enlightenment

So over the weekend, disappointed when Barista could not give us coffee (power cut), we headed to Gangaramaya Buddhist temple. A serene place, the tree of historical significance does have a soothing effect on the soul. 

Tucked next to it is the lake and the Colombo city center mall. Brand power is not that strong here, but the food court had ample to offer.

Road Trip: Galle

We did manage to get petrol, just enough that we decided to head to the city of Galle (~150 Km from Colombo). Kandy was rejected as an option due to the distance, we would be stretching both (i) our fuel supply and (ii) the 2 year old's patience. 

Suzuki/ Daihatsu Every: careful with the fuel

The highway is a breeze, built on Chinese debt of course but a good job done with execution. Not at all meant for highway sprints, the Suzuki Every/ Daihatsu did it's job well with its puny tires. Last we sat in its cousin Daihatsu was in Thailand, where these machines are strictly for city movement to gorge and disembowel drunk tourists to their hotels. But here, we were on the highway. However, the real strain was not pushing the Suzuki to three digits, it was restricting speed to ensure optimum mileage. Not surprising though - it was not just us, the bigger guys (Land Rovers, BMWs etc.) were cruising well 30% below speed limit. Evidently, fuel remains a problem for all classes. Lines at petrol stations certify this problem.

My initial advice for Galle: 

(a) Don’t go to Galle 

(b) If you do go to Galle, spend time in the fort area only.

Recommended: The Bungalow restaurant

Protestant Church @Galle (Suzuki parked)

While there seemed nothing noteworthy as we entered the city, and we saw the fort lighthouse etc., my perspective changed after we got lost in the lanes in the ancient fort area. The feel here is magical. As against my recent advice of not visiting Galle, I contradict myself and would recommend to spend some time, maybe a day or two to soak in the culture, beauty and character of the old town. 

The Fort@ Galle: built by the Portugese, Dutch and British in that order

Colombo Monkey business

Then there was the zoo at Colombo. Not unremarkable, and lest the reader starts making comments on my intellectual capacity, I take the opportunity to remind them that we have a 2 year old in our midst who deserved entertainment before the start of his 10 day quarantine in China. Economic crisis be damned, the zoo is incredibly well kept, resilient and almost at par with the ones we have seen in the developed world. SAARC nationalities enter for 800 LKR only.

The country has character. Check out the way they keep their cars here:

Beauty beyond age: Mini Cooper

And check out the local food:

Taster set @ Culture Colombo

Guess what Indira Gandhi, Scarlett Johansson and we have in common? All of us had an opportunity to dine at the iconic Galle Face. Again, the currency meant that the whole affair was almost at par with your pizza bill in your country. 

Galle Face Colombo

While I was trying to summarize what worked well for us, I failed to pin point the reason why the SL visit turned out remarkable for us. As stated earlier, it was a God-send change from the China travel preparations and impending quarantine cloud and thus exceeded expectations by lifting our spirits from the depth of the abyss.

 

But it would be criminal to not attribute the good of the trip to The Ocean hotel and its staff. We got it for a steal, rooms & washrooms were nice, breakfast was good, the staff was incredibly warm, helped us with travel documentation and the view is unbeatable. I challenge thee for the view: we have never seen the road, rail and sea in confluence.

The Ocean: literally

The California 1 drive: Santa Cruz and Carmel

The earth slipped from beneath my feet when I saw the blue beast at the SF airport. The guys had hired a Mustang for the day for one of the best drives of the world. The legendary California 1 highway was to be taken and we were about to savor the picturesque coastline.

Santa Cruz

Santa Cruz is a quiet town with a great coastline and we hit a great brunch place called 'Gilda's' here. The eggs and pancakes are truly worth a mention for they ensured that I remember the name of the place. You may also witness some surfers if you are here in the right season.

Carmel

Carmel is a small town which can easily be a synonym of opulence. Historically,this has been host to many artists and played a vital role in the rise of the art era. I repeatedly kept asking the guys as to what makes this town so grand even today; what do its people do? There had to be a reason why the homes were so regal, half the Porsches of the world are here. I was informed that this town is where all the silicon valley people retire. So once you've made your million (or billion), you get a Porsche, a grand home in Carmel and spend rest of your life visiting cafes here. I was informed that this city has a strange law which mandates obtaining a permit before wearing heels. History justifies this law citing the record number of lawsuits filed by people who tripped over thick tree-roots. While driving back, we hit the town of Monterey.

The drive along CA1 is epic. And today we were out in the 305bhp Mustang. The distinguished growl of the American muscle, the fresh California sea air in your face- this was pure magic. We often hear Floyd, Maiden etc and wonder if the lyrics describe despair, hope or elation. Today, playing on the Mustang's stereo; along with the V6's growl- it was ecstasy. I envy all the Californians who can drive down to this place every weekend. The winding roads, the lovely air and the occasional sprinkles of sea water make it one of the best drives I've ever had.
We did get to the Ventana wilderness of the Los Padres national forest by 3 and started our trek towards the sea. We braved a river, swamps and slush: in the company of deer. However, the swamps grew uglier and it was the fearless Sid who braved the last one. After calling it a day, we headed back with drivers switched and Praddy ]; I in the back seat with the top down. Now this move put us in a different world altogether. While the windshield streamlines the air in the front, the rear is open to nature. I confessed to these guys: I now understood why dogs stuck their heads (and tongue) out of windows of speeding cars. I am proud to have experienced that pleasure that is rightfully canines'.
Note: the final race in Need for speed starring the Bugati Veyron, the Lambo, Konnigsegg, Saleen, McLaren

Las Vegas, the Grand Canyon

Vegas

Gambling. What Vegas is famous for.. Strikes you right in your face when you land at McCarran airport. Casino machines in excess at the airport itself. And the size of the airport is intimidating. I had to walk for miles, take a metro train to the other terminal, walk for miles again before I reached the baggage belt. Miles may be an exaggeration in the text above but the size and time taken at the airport is not. And once out of the airport, you are greeted by an array of flyovers and of course- the famous strip. The MGM grand, Pallazo, etc are very much visible from the airport.

This was a trip on shoestrings. Add to that the woes of my currency; I decided to take the bus. For $2, it got me somewhere near my hotel, after which I walked for a mile. On the bus I was greeted by a charming couple- where the wife threatened to kill her husband thrice, hit him once and pinched his arm twice. Words that the lovebirds used to address each other augmented my vocabulary substantially. As soon as they got off, the place opposite to me was taken by three: two middle aged women and a gentleman. Observing their chimpanzee-ish demeanor and indiscernible conversation, I could not very well pin down the quantity (in kilos) of dope running in their veins. While all of America had stunned me with amazing mannerisms, this was one experience where gazes burnt my brown skin.

In short, there is a lesson to be learnt. In Vegas- do not depend on public transport. 
1. Its highly unreliable. A fact established by an airport bus that never came. I may point out that this was taken decently by the hardened Indian, but the British and German tourists waiting with me at the stop were close to tears. 




2. Late in the night, it does not feel safe. This is from my trip from the airport to the Riveria street. While the Strip buses should be fine, but those operating beyond ought to be avoided.




I had got a dream come true deal at the Circus Circus (an MGM hotel). In no time, I was impressed. The only sore point was that walking within the hotel was like walking through a city. I got lost multiple times, reached the casino when searching for the travel desk, found myself at the amusement park when searching for the shopping center in the hotel. No kidding.. There is a spectacular amusement park inside the hotel! With roller coasters and all. At $22 a night, I was expecting to sleep under a bunker bed in a dormitory full of devious characters from gangster movies. What I got was a four bedder room to myself with all the amenities one can dream of. In fact, it is this deal that got me to Vegas instead of LA as per the initial plan.

Today, I had gained 2 hours and there was ample time to loaf around at the Strip. I was on the poorer side of the Strip which worked well as I was closer to the dollar burger at McD, 7-11 and a couple of inexpensive souvenir shops. The walk to the Bellagio was close to 2 miles and in case you are not awed by the grandeur, there is not much to do.

The Grand Canyon

The next day I took the bus tour to the Grand Canyon. At 5:50 am, a connecting bus picked me up from the hotel and took me to the main hub where tickets, refreshments etc were bought. The Hoover dam + Canyon south rim+ lunch is for $95 and in case you opt for the IMax, add to that $15.

The drive took close to 5 hours with a halt at Hoover dam, Kingstown (Arizona) and the National Geographic center for lunch. Kingstown is a small town which prides itself of the historic 'Route 66'. In Arizona, time zone changed again by 1 hour and by this time, I simply gave up trying to keep a track of time.

The Grand Canyons offer a majestic sight. What I saw was just the view, I would love to get into the real thing one day. This means chuck the chopper ride, pink jeep tour and get inside on foot. Or perhaps a mule. For there is a lot more to the canyons than what tourists see from their sweet spots. You can feel their grandeur.. Mesmerizing.. Challenging you to experience the whole thing.

It was 10pm by the time I got back to Vegas. But not to worry, the city works 24*7, perhaps works better at night. I again loafed around the strip and took the usual snaps at those properties that define grandiose.

There's a lot to do at Vegas: clubs, the shows, sky diving (the real thing and a virtual one as well), shooting (with your favorite counter strike guns for real) and bungee jumping.

This is a place which guarantees fun for all. If you do take time to stop and think- this is anything and everything in a nowhere-land.

Texas: Houston, Uvalde and San Antonio

Disclaimer: The author was totally swept off by Texas, in particular the way of life in small towns like Uvalde. What is here to see is more to do with the Texan way of life than the touristy spots. 

Houston

Smita's wedding was in Sugarland. Thanks to that I got see the place. Characteristic flat structures and standardized brick exteriors are the norm in Sugarland and they do manage to give the area a classy touch.

When Naman, Noopur and Navya came down to pick me up, we decided to explore Houston. First thing, we hit the butterfly museum. It was not just fun for little Navya, but a good time for the rest of us as well. The bugs' habitats in the initial part do give a creepy feeling but the enclosed park with beautiful butterflies of all kinds more than make up for it.

Next we headed to the NASA museum. I'll be honest here. I wasn't that very impressed by the whole thing. The only impressive parts are the real rocket on display, moon rocks and the simulation area. Maybe we were too excited, maybe we were expecting too much. Then it struck me. The reason why NASA stuff seemed redundant can be blamed on the movie: 'Gravity'.. We've been shown a lot cooler stuff and now seeing the old Houston abandoned mission control center does not impress me at all..
Next Naman wanted to take me to the 'Waterwall'. By the description of it (a man made waterfall), I was against the idea. Naman however was persistent and got us there. And I can't thank him enough for that. For I surely would have missed the mystical feel of the place had he not been hell bent on visiting the place.Sublime lighting, water flowing down with force, sprinkling gently to distant onlookers, right in midst of the impressive structures of downtown: has to be experienced and I cannot attempt to justify it with words.





We headed back to Uvalde and the drive was very much an American one with constant snacking and stops at drive-thrus.

Uvalde

Some of the reasons why I loved Uvalde are:

1. The Texan pride is very apparent
2. Monster trucks all around: Ford F-150, 350s, Dodge Rams, Chevy Silverados and (handful of) Toyota Tacomas & Tundras dwarf pretty much anything else you drive
3. It is relatively a comfortable area: with big ranches, hardly any congestions, a bit inexpensive ($ 3.3 to the gallon against 4ish in other states)
4. Most importantly: Naman, Noopur and Navya live here. It was the best time I had in their company

In the first round of the city, we visited the Garner airfield, the Walmart (one the largest in the country) and the city center. On paper this may sound drab, but it is a different experience in a small town where you can walk inside the airfield, check out planes real close and even hire them. 

These guys had a drive planned and we headed to the Garner state park: some 35 miles off Uvalde. The place offers camping sites, boat rides and canoes. We spent a leisurely afternoon in the cold waters of the Frio river. On our way back, we did make a stop at one of those bars which reminds of the wild west.

San Antonio

Since my flight was from San Antonio, Naman said it would be a good idea to visit the Caverns of the town as well. Now this was a trip very well worth it. The tour through the caverns takes around an hour and geography archives of the memory are strained to recollect the structural analysis of stalactites, stalagmites. Geography lover or not, all the caverns make up for quite a spectacular structure and their splendor will be ingrained in my mind forever.
Note- besides SF, this was the best tourist spot of them all.

To round it up, Texas is almost a country on its own (with several historical attempts to make that happen). While there were quite a few places to see, I loved the state for its way of life. I loved the way Naman and Noopur live, the way everything is huge out here (the ranches, the Walmarts, the roads, the schools & of course the pick-up trucks) and the cheery people comfortably living in this harsh terrain. 

Turn the Page: Mumbai to Delhi

All the same 'ole cliches: is it real? Is it done?
And you always seem outnumbered, you dare not make a stand,

But, make your stand.

There was a lot of thought process that went behind this trip. The same story again. Too impractical, too risky and too exhausting.  A lot many took this idea too seriously and tried to talk me out of it. But then, I have always found great humor in the fact that we take ourselves too seriously about things like career, certifications and social status. Here I am, thinking of wasting precious man-hours to ride from Mumbai to Delhi. No matter what I get out of this, I know I am not going to forget this. This has to be one of those times when I would let the heart rule over the mind.. So:

Day 1:

On a long and lonesome highway east of Omaha
You can listen to the engines, moanin' out it's one old song
You can think about the woman, or the girl you knew the night before

7:30 in the morning and I had almost escaped from Mumbai. Soon the UT of Daman came up. All that I’d heard about this place turned out to be quite apt: many shady places with the sole USP of cheap booze.

You and I have heard and read a lot about Gujarat and my; come noon: I was not disappointed at all.. The roads remain spectacular and the rapid industrialization is very apparent. Critics may say that I’m travelling on the NH8 and all that I see is the Centre’s effort. Agreed but then, Gujarat has managed to make use of the centre’s help and implement the projects better than others..

The capital: Ahmedabad is truly growing at a phenomenal pace and even the outer roads are brilliant. My only complaint is that bikes are not allowed on the Ahmedabad- Baroda (Vadodara) expressway. The sister city of Gandhinagar was avoided and as the sun tired out, even I could sense my concentration waning. So I stopped for a late lunch at a highway dhaba.

But your thoughts will soon be wandering the way they always do
When you're riding sixteen hours and there's nothing much to do
You don't feel much like ridin', you just wish the trip was through

A scary situation presented itself beyond the town Himmatnagar: a border town of Gujarat. There had been little inhabitation since a long time and miraculously, the fuel pumps had vanished. This was a matter of concern, since at that opportune hour, I had little fuel left. As I put my grey cells into use, the mystery unfolded. The obvious explanation was that I was nearing the state of Rajasthan which might have priced fuel a lot lower than Gujarat (this theory was confirmed sometime later). Hence the political & economic dynamics had wiped out all the pumps in this region; the regulars on the highway would prefer driving to Rajasthan to refuel. Some truckers even carry fuel in alternative storages from states where it is cheaper. However, I am not a regular; nor am I a trucker. Hence I was in a big problem. I changed my cruising speed to make the most out of every drop of fuel.

In what seemed like eternity, I finally saw a board welcoming me to Rajasthan. Sure enough, there were a handful of pumps offering fuel. I stopped at the first and filled my tank. However, I noticed a changed note of the engine. Closer analysis revealed a crack in the silencer.. Shoot..

I did a detailed check and figured out there was nothing much I could do besides allowing it to cool and then carrying on. The petrol attendant watched me and we struck a conversation:

A: Sirjee, Kahan se?

M: Mumbai..

A: Driving since yesterday? Bike?? !!

I gave my starting time of today and the fellow dolted like a rabbit. He came back a minute later with his buddies and a person who seemed like the manager. The gang got into a deep conversation about my journey and insisted that I join them for tea and ‘snakes’.

But here I am, on the road again
There I am, up on the stage
There I go, playing the star again
There I go, turn the page

The friendly banter had to be concluded as the shadows lengthened and grew fainter. I mounted the bike and gunned the engine in an attempt to beat the sun. Alas, the sun went down and the headlamps lit up the tarmac. More than the night, the erratic behaviour of the Rajasthan soil scared me. I had read that sand gains and loses heat quickly. Tonight, it was out to prove this. The temperature dropped with each passing minute and soon my teeth were chattering with cold. The exhaust system had totally given up and the engine sounded as if it were propelling a dirt bike. I finally made it to Udaipur at 7:30pm. After a quick shower, I drove around town to refresh my memories of the lake, palace and the Sukhadia circle (Tip: Never get conned into going to Sukhadia circle; it’s pathetic). May I take this opportunity to recommend the ‘Natraj’ hotel’s thali’ which is rightfully a local legend.

Day 2

The ride started at 6:15 am and my: it was chilly. Same ol’ story: hands shivering, teeth chattering and the body yearning  for warmth amidst the freezing wind. At 10, I couldn’t take it anymore and had to stop at a dhaba for something hot before Ajmer.

You walk into a restaurant, strung out from the road
And you feel the eyes upon you, as you're shaking off the cold
You pretend it doesn't bother you, but you just want to explode
And most times you can't hear 'em talk, other times you can

Within an hour, I was subject to the other extreme: the sun shone relentlessly and burnt quite some of my skin. Ajmer to Jaipur is the best of NH-8 and if you’re driving below 100 kmph, you run the risk of being labelled a slow-poke and being run over. Sadly, the Jaipur- Delhi stretch is a big mess. The 6 laning project is on and ensures that there are innumerous bottlenecks and craters. The last 200 kms really shook me up; and my bike as well. At 4:10pm, I reached the airport with a slightly dislodged tail lamp, front fender and of course: the broken exhaust system. For a wretchedly used 5 year old bike, I’d say its still aging gracefully.

Out there in the spotlight, your a million miles away
Every ounce of energy, you try to give away
And the sweat pours out your body, like the music that you play
Later in the evening, as you lie awake in bed
With the echoes of the amplifiers, ringin' in your head
You smoke the days last cigarette, rememberin' what she said
What she said

Another philosophical journey comes to an end. In the last 2 days, I got time to look into myself, view my life as an outsider: the events, agents and circumstances.. Come to terms with the past and most importantly, get myself ready for the next phase of life…

Konkan: valleys, rivers, beaches, forests & more..

It is difficult to describe the beauty of Konkan.  The world is full of different people: some pray for sea-shores & beaches, some for green forests while some like me wish for mountains. It seems that God wished to annihilate that divide so here’s what was done: Mountains, hills, forests with an endless variety of trees, rivers, coasts, ridges were put in a pot, mixed thoroughly and thus was born the Konkan region.

I mean, throughout my ride, I was startled by the sheer richness of the region: ups and downs on the road meant that I could never figure out whether what I see in the horizon is the sky or the sea!! It has stuff that you don’t find on the map, talk or even sight. You have to experience it yourself.

The Mumbai-Goa highway is quite an interesting ride. Nothing spectacular:  a decently tarred surface which is a two lane throughout. The picturesque surroundings more than make up for the couple of rough patches.

The road meanders along beautiful rivers. The numerous ghats challenge your concentration and driving skills. The beauty of the surroundings has the potential to convert the village idiot into a poet.

The Goa highway had given me as much pleasure as it could, now I yearned for the sea. This means that I will have to leave this highway and head towards the Indian ocean and get on the coastal highway. At Ratnagiri, I asked a couple of people and everyone advised me against it. Fed up with the mismatch between the practical and romantic camps, I chose to play the romantic. I took a right on the next obscure road, leaving the highway for a semi-paved road that didn’t declare where it was heading to . With a map, I selected a couple of villages that should get me to the coast and started asking the rare passerbys for directions. The drive was slow, thrilling and philosophically enchanting. Villages and people who live at their own pace, kids considering me a peculiar species on a weird spaceship. They have time to stop, help you and strike a conversation.

Strange: You can feel lonely in a city of 30 million, but in this nowhere-land which is home for perhaps a dozen people; I never felt insecure or uneasy.

Today was a fine ride. I had driven hard on ghats, straights but had slowed down whenever I found the surrounding enchanting. I believe that if you hurry with something you like, it is an indicator that you are no longer interested in it and want to get over with it. That’s the beauty of a bike. In a car, I feel like I am watching television. On the motorcycle, I am actually in nature’s lap. The varying scent of trees, vegetation, the changes in temperature, the sights and sounds are actually remembered forever. Some say I’m crazy to head out alone on a motorcycle this way and am perhaps over-hyping the whole experience. However, this is the only content and true experience I have with my inner self. Rest of the time I’m just feigning sense in that everyday routine just like the rest of the world.

However, having reached Devgad fort at 5:30 pm, this poetic experience had to make way for security and practicality. The sun was going down fast and I was some 50 kms from my destination. I determinedly headed south. However, after a while the sun disappeared and I was stuck in the middle of nowhere with absolutely no clue of the direction (as I said: my old guide sun was no longer telling me where west is). When I say middle of nowhere, I actually mean middle of nowhere. After driving on a narrow road for around half an hour, I was surprised not to have found a single soul all this while. As I stopped on a hilltop, I could only see absolutely same landscape on all four sides. Moderate vegetation, no sight of the sea and hills as far your sight goes.

In the middle of nowhere...

At moments like these, you get into survival mode and get philosophical about the purpose of your life, or whatever little is left of it. However, A messiah appeared out of nowhere and I flagged down the human. Two seemed to be a minority in this endless forest and after exchanging a few words, the fellow suggested that I follow him. And then we sped up. 40 minutes of gruelling riding and I was in habitation once again. I thanked my guide and started the search of a hotel.

I realized that this town has a pace very different from what we are used to. The home stay owners were greatly inconvenienced due to the fact that some crazy customer was at their door at an obscenely late hour: i.e. 8:00 pm.

I surveyed almost all hotels and finally settled down in Gajanan resort (I don’t think you’ll find better value!)

Trip Log: (To & fro with coastal detours, visit to Kudal & GanpatiPule)

Odo: 1262 Km