Beyond words: Langkawi

(..Continued from Part 1)

Eagle Square: Langkawi

In the wee hours of the morning, war waged between the screaming alarm out and the somnolent eye slits. Sleep flexed its muscles and it brutally annihilated that pestering alarm, for that wretched thing was put off for good. What followed later at the time of waking up was a mini skirmish with time again and it seemed that the previous battle with the alarm had not been a prudent one. We ran: to freshen up, hit the swimming pool, scavenge the breakfast spread and catch the last morning boat to the pier. Yes, even in this maniacal race we had to hit the swimming pool here. Skipping it is not an option. Once you are here and have experienced its splendor: the beach, sea nearby and the in-pool bar, there is no way you are going to skip it any day. Once the boat brought us from the island to the pier, we hired a bike.

Driving through Langkawi on your own is highly recommended. If you can brave the tropical sun a bit and pray to all Gods against rain, a two wheeler is highly recommended over hiring a car. I love bikes, but those automatic bikes/ scooters with smaller tires scare the living daylights out of me. I announced my trepidation publicly and Sona gladly hopped on to the rider’s seat with me at the back.  The ride is mesmerizing. You witness lush green, thickly tree scented air and keep anticipating as to what a spectacle the next turn will bring for you. 

The Langkawi ropeway was a pain. The agonizing line here is to blame for the pain. The websites, travel blogs and tripadvisor did counsel us to pre-book the cable car online. However, this fact was too much for my cache memory, which historically has shown poor performance in such rushed mornings. So here we were, in the bright sun: in the perennial queue that refused to slither on. So here’s what we did: We braved on the sun to excavate our tickets and got the slot for late afternoon. Then, we returned to our dear M-80 Major look-alike-Yamaha and zipped off to the ‘Seven Hills Waterfall’ which was located nearby; according to the map. It is quite a steep trek from the parking – fact corroborated by our screaming knees (the next day). Here Sona had a dreamy time taking a dip in the fresh waters.

Seven Hills Waterfall

Dipping in @ Seven Hills Waterfall..

We then visited the crocodile farm. I am not sure if I can recommend this as a ‘must visit place’, but we definitely had a good time. The Crocs, slimy as they are, do make your spine shiver more than once, but the farm is overall a pleasant place with a lot of variety and numbers to offer. Another place worth a visit is the Eagle Square, which is the town center. Although there’s not much to do here.

Piling up: Crocodile park

We hit the local cafeteria at the Crocodile park and Sona popped up a question which was becoming kind of obvious now: “Where are all the local men? Why do I see only women working everywhere?”. This is quite a deep and powerful question- in a good sense. This question came to us as all the places we had visited (mostly servicing front ends: shops, ticket counters, etc.), were manned (or woman-ned perhaps?) by women. Remember, Malaysia’s population comprises predominantly of a Muslim population, and many nations with similar concentrations are known not to be very conducive in terms of liberty and working environment for women. With so many women working, Malaysia has truly set an example not just for radical nations or the developing countries, but even the developed ones of the world (I refer to this- related article from a recent Economist edition). We both were very impressed by the equality maintained in both unskilled and skilled work domains. We are well versed with the term “women empowerment” thanks to our national jester back home in India (#RahulSpeaksToArnab), and it is good to see more of results than talk here in Malaysia. 

After time well spent at both these places (Seven hills waterfall and Croc park), we headed back to the ‘Oriental Village’- where the Langkawi ropeway originates. There is quite a lot to do here at the oriental village including all the fun and frolic of a fair, such as shopping, joy-rides, eateries, etc. By the time we reached the cable car, I was quite fed up of the queues (which were a reminiscence of my home country). Thankfully, the view cheered us up. There are two legs to the journey (roughly of about 15 minutes each), with the famous Skybridge at the last leg. The SkyCab (gondolas) propel you to an altitude of 708 m covering an impressive distance of around 2.2Km. The temperature here is at least 5 degrees cooler than the island with great winds. The sight at the top is beyond what my vocabulary can attempt to describe.

The ropeway is a scary affair: Trust me!

SkyBridge

SRK pulled off some stunts here in Don2; Today it's Sona

Skybridge: The First to catch your attention is the architecture of the bridge: a curved suspension, the balance proves that is a marvel in structural engineering. The spectacle plays games with you. There is a visual game played by the surroundings (which means the whole of Langkawi); the far sea challenges you to pin point that blue of the horizon, where the sky melts into the sea. It gives a moment to witness and appreciate the elements, the expanse of land far below, the fresh cool wind in your face, the sky, the passionate sea; with little violent territories spread over.

Through some unseen powers, all of them seem to be whispering in my ear, my head: gently reminding me of what I am- a tiny speck in the lap of nature. It is a pristine place where you could possibly get lost in the depth of your own soul, where we felt beating of our hearts in midst of howling winds. At any moment of time there are little and big nagging things trapped inside us, all the shackles of the daily life, and here, the free winds magically liberated us.

Another thing I witnessed here was Infinity: Here, in the vast expanse of nature seemed to have perhaps extended time into another dimension, our senses working to soak in everything they could. And when we did come out of this trance to reality, I immediately knew what infinity is. That moment: out there was something that Sona and I will remember forever; no matter how time treats us in various circumstances.

Some ask me: How was Langkawi different?

I sat on that question for a few days, pondered on and could not conclude. Now, I attempt to answer it in my own way.

Kuala Lumpur & Singapore are those Linkin Park tracks or even the trashy Bollywood hit tracks topping the charts (including the crass called Honey Singh of course). Like those tracks, you love Singapore or Kuala Lumpur as they have been certified by the public. There is a lot to talk about them in your circles and make a point that you’ve been there, done that, etc.

We move on to Hans Zimmer’s compositions. They may not be the mainstream hits and more often than not, they are missed out by us. However- unknowingly, they have been the most critical factor for stirring emotions in the Gladiator, Man of Steel, Inception & the Dark Knight trilogy. 
The manner in which Hans Zimmer’s numerous instruments work to create the emotion and add depth to the character; is comparable to none. Similar is the working of Langkawi’s elements which overwhelm you. Once here, you are in a different realm altogether. 

Never mind the obvious heat or the absence of snazzy clubs in Lagkawi, this is a place that sets you in a different frame of mind. A feeling where you may witness clam, quietude and the perfect setup for breathing in the beauty of the surroundings, ponder upon and play with the laws of nature. In fact, this place may make you delve deeper into yourself and the bonds you cherish. 

Langkawi: The island and the Rebak resort

My wife and I are usually more keen on the place, the journey than the places we stay at. However, Taj Rebak has forced us to make an exception and hence a resort name finds its way into the title.

We landed in this heavenly place called Langkawi in that small ATR. We could see the Taj island from the aircraft when it descended for the Langkawi airport. At that time, it seemed to be an island with just trees and a wonderful bay where a couple of millionaires park their yachts. Err.. Where were the residential structures? Was that it? Were they going to put us up in makeshift shanties? Our worries drifted away when we approached the Langkawi airport. 

We were soaking in the sinking sun over the vast sea, when suddenly a beach appeared. Another second passed, and we could see a picturesque road riddled with trees next to it. We made a mental note to visit this road if time permitted. The next second, there was a fence and another road. So at the moment, the order approximately is: Sea (Infinity to 50 m), Beach (50 m), Road (40 m), Fence (30 m) and another Road (5m). “Wait! Did I just say that road is only 5 meters away?! We are in a plane right? Khalisi’s dragons be doomed! Thisss issss Sparta The Runway!!” Screech, mild shudder, hard deceleration.. We had landed! And still we could see the sea. I am sure there ought to be a lot of runways around the world near the sea, but this one was a very pleasant surprise for both of us. Vividly beautiful. Sometime later, we were riding down the same sea-side road we had dreamt of visiting minutes earlier.

The Taj Vivanta Bay

The Rooms

Sea, Beach and rich green from the room balcony

The Taj vehicle was there to pick us up and we reached the pier in 15 minutes. Speedboats operate at specified frequency for the Taj Rebak island and we had to wait for around 15 minutes for the next. As the boat sped and bounced in the open sea, we could see the tiny archipelagos around us. Finally, we sighted the bay of the Rebak island. As observed from the plane sometime back, there were a number of yachts anchored here and once docked, we hopped on to the electric cart to get to the reception. Even in the limited rays of the sun at dusk, this place looked fabulous. Everything here seemed so natural, perfectly blended into the setting of the forest. Signs of human control over this natural island are difficult to distinguish; the reason why we could not find any ‘buildings’ when we flew over this island. 

The residential complexes are neatly spread across one part of the island, camouflaged by a good amount of foliage, which is why we could not spot anything from the aircraft. Being an island, you don’t have to put a lot of effort to get to see the sea. However, the most glorious beach is located near to the reception and pool area. As for the pool, it offers an ‘in-pool’ bar and gives the sensation of an infinity pool with the sea in the horizon.

 

On one fine morning, when the tide was receding, we were given a final go-ahead for kayaking by the Activities desk at the hotel. When the hotel personnel enquired about our kayaking & rowing skills, I declared that my skills with organic chemistry and African languages such as Igbo and Yoruba: all combined could very well beat my knowledge of kayaking. (Note: The author has forgotten everything remotely related to chemistry; and has been feeling a lot better ever since). 

Sona on the other hand, had a lot to say about how she single handedly had kayaked upstream a river, climbed up mighty waterfalls in the kayak and conquered formidable glaciers; the name of which she could not precisely remember at the moment. Impressed, the fellow handed us our life jackets, a pair of oars, dragged a kayak to the beach and walked away. Armed with the requisite equipment and Sona’s experience, we made a dash for the sea. 
For a good time, we were adrift: hitting each other with oars, oafing around, moving in circles and tiring ourselves. Thankfully, just before they were contemplating sending search planes in the Malacca Sea to look for a holidaying couple, Sona’s kayaking skills magically returned! She took charge and under her able leadership, we were soon oaring  in a co-ordinated fashion headed to a distant uninhabited island in sight. Docking/ Landing on this island was a dangerous task, with jagged rocks threatening to pierce anything that came their way. Holding the fort were an army of black crabs; certainly larger than what we are accustomed to. We limited our stunts with the kayak until prudence prevailed and we headed back to the Rebak island.

Note: Strongly advise you not to take your cameras on the kayak. There was a good amount of water in the kayak and sprayed on us by the sea to put an end to the life of any electronic instrument.

There is a room and there is a wash. Mein Gott!

Both of us have been overwhelmed by both Langkawi, and the Taj island property. I’ll refrain from commenting on services as I find them as good as others: Sofitel, Holiday Inn, etc. but maybe more seasoned guests can comment. My wife did comment once that the quality may have been perhaps a little short of what is expected of Taj; with this one being under the ‘Vivanta’ brand. Let that be. In a nutshell, the staff here may not swoon over you but will certainly be exceeding your expectations. The main point where I think we need to focus is the place and the experience: It is kind of your own private island. I never dreamt of staying in such a setup. My hopes for staying/ owning at a private island were dashed when I failed to become a Columbian drug-lord or a corrupt politician or an illegal arms dealer; as I considered only these occupations could  afford me such a luxury. However, even as a failure at these quick-buck professions, we could manage a great time at Taj-Rebak. The only sore point is any boat from and to the island other than the pre-defined times may invite bankruptcy for you. Talking about expenses, I have to highlight that Langkawi is a duty free zone and during our entire stay, we felt that we got a lot more for each Ringgit spent.

To the Rebak island, I wish to dedicate these words of George Gordon Byron:

“There is a pleasure in the pathless woods,
There is a rapture on the lonely shore,
There is society, where none intrudes,
By the deep sea, and music in its roar:
I love not man the less, but Nature more” 
― George Gordon Byron


(Part 2 Continued.......) 

Kuala Lumpur: All you can in 2 days..

Spot the Yogi..

:

Petronas Towers:

You have to see it to believe it. Not a fan of buildings in particular, I was moved by the grandiose of this structure. That too on my second visit to this place. Part of this structure is open for the public: the Suria mall and the Petrosains museum. The central park behind this is a great place to go: especially in the morning and evening. This picture above- I am particularly proud of: camouflaged here is Sona concluding her yoga session.

Wind Tunnel @ Petrosains

Petrosains Museum:

Recommend this if you are with kids. Couple of things to meddle around for adults as well.

Bukit Bintang:

This is the Bandra/CP/Church Street of KL. Lot of places to choose from. For the adventurous ones, try out the local cuisine in the informal eateries.

Bird Park:

This is a highly entertaining place, with the birds moving among you quite fearlessly. The bird show is the local attraction here, advisable to time your visit to catch this. Beware of the parakeet section: the hostile ones whizz past your ears at incredible speeds.

 

Aquaria KLCC:

A great attraction with a rich variety to look at. The feeding time provides striking views as well. If you have seen this in Singapore/ Dubai, you could consider this experience. The variety is striking enough, and I highly recommend this.

  

Yes! There's a section where you can touch them!

Sharks galore!

National Museum:

A passable tourist attraction. We hit this place to spend time between airports. This walks you through the history of the region, right from centuries ago to pre-independence to the recent times of industrialization. 

We meet again old fellas!

 

Menara Kuala Lumpur:

Petronas Towers from the Menara KL

The Menara KL is the older structure when compared to the Petronas tower but seems a lot more worthy a visit. The viewing deck is higher than anything in the city and it offers a great sight of the city and the Petronas towers. In case you do wish to view the city, we recommend this instead of the Petronas sky-bridge. Reason being: You cannot view the Petronas towers from within, they can be viewed  better from the Menara KL, especially in the evening.

Chinatown:

Must visit for you if you love bargaining hard and cracking a good deal gives you immense satisfaction. Reminded us of the Chatuchak market of Bangkok.

i-20 Active: Our Desi Scirocco??

Take a careful look at it on the road. It is clearly one of the most beautiful things ever created in the recent Indian automotive times. This piece of art: i20 Elite/ Active reminds me of the Volkswagen Scirocco; which until now, I thought to be the best looking hatchback ever created. It graciously moves away from the trend of designing mainstream hatchbacks as toads and frogs. The Swifts, Wagon Rs, Nissan Leaf, Toyota Yaris and Peugeots were all corrupting the trend and the i-20 Elite/ Active is here to rescue us with its gracious curves molded to some subdued muscles.

You can safely say that the i20 elite/Active have transformed the Indian automotive design space. Something that was done by the Ford Ecosport sometime back, and the Daewoo Cielo some decades back. Now that the market has seen such spectacular piece of art, the competition has to roll up its sleeves, work hard to keep up and give the customers better (Volkswagen, Chevy, Toyota: are you listening?).

Interiors

Once you get inside, it is fabulous! The two tone colors, the small digital display for climate control, the steering mounted controls, the chrome inserts: all make a great impression. The winner here is of course the two tone color scheme: With a choice of racy orange or a cool blue options to play around in the dashboard. The plastic is certainly hard and not as soft and plush as the Hondas, but it certainly feels top quality and like something that will last. The seating is quite comfortable with little inserts, and an array of features thoughtfully crafted making you feel special throughout the vehicle.

As for the rear passengers, there is ample leg room. But what makes it really wonderful at the back are the rear AC vents. I believe that this is one of the most useful features for the harsh Indian climate and a market where a good percentage of the cars  are chauffeur driven (Yes! Hatchbacks included). As far as I can remember, in the sub-10L category, only Tata had thought of this (in its Indigo XL, that bombed) before Hyundai got it out in the top model of its i-10 Grand. Plainly put: when it comes to interiors, there is no competition for this Hyundai. Maruti does make an attempt to give you lot of goodies, but it fails to keep up when it comes to the quality of materials and the overall finishing. While I do condemn the overpriced Volkswagens a lot, I do agree they have really good quality stuff inside but again: the whole dashboard of the Polo/ Vento seems to be ancient and from the 90s, nowhere close to the i-20 Active.

The Drive and Performance

The drive is what every Hyundai drive is like: smooth, soft steering, comfortable suspension. Gear shifts are leisurely and the engine is quite rev-happy. There is no turbo charger here and the 1.4L diesel pot does not feel like it needs one. The torque delivery is mysteriously linear and has striking resemblance to a petrol engine. You may rev the engine hard, but it can only do so much in terms of acceleration. Its 0-100 figures may not be something to write home about, but the brilliant part is the smooth power delivery and decent torque at low ends, making this diesel a pleasure to drive in the city limits. No shifting needed or wretched turbo lag at lower RPMs. With experience with its ancestors on long highways, I know it handles really well at high speeds as well, a tad better than the Swift/Ritz and almost in the league of the VW Polo or the Ford Figo. On the highway, I do wish the steering had more weight. The smoothness of the steering means curtailing any form of feedback from the road: a standard characteristic of Hyundais. Fuel efficiency is proven to be as good as the competition but in the mileage frantic Indian junta, I shall refrain from mentioning the figure I have. I don’t want to instigate those aggrandizing freaks who will come to argue with me pointlessly. (1) 

Exteriors

VW Scirocco

I could go on and on about the looks of this car. The fact that it dislodged that age old beauty Scirocco from my mental podium is a testimony to how imposing a presence this car has. Brochures apart, you have to see the rear in flesh and blood; ahem.. or should I say: in Metal and Rubber. Even those who are otherwise oblivious to automotive proceedings look up and inquire about the car and the process to own it once an i20 Elite glides across the streets. Unlike the Toyota Etios Liva Cross, the i20 Active is not just about the inserting plastics to jack up the price. There is some work done with the suspension as well. With the raised suspension, the Active has all the more imposing presence and the bodywork has been incredibly done. I may say that in white color, it does seem to be moving perilously close to the Ford Ecosport. With the projector headlamps, brilliant side skirts, standard alloy wheels, dull aluminium texture look-alike fuel lid (I particularly love this one!!) and wonderful bumper inserts (rear reflectors and front fog lamps): the i20 can even dare challenge the German or British marquees: the BMW X1, Jaguar XF included at a fraction of the price.

Trying to be a SUV??

Pardon me for mentioning Ford Ecosport as a competitor to the i20 Active earlier somewhere in the text . Critics will be quick to point out that the two are different segments. The semblance I draw is from the price and ground clearance: where both the Ford and the Hyundai come surprisingly close to each other. While the Active is no true off-roader, it does in some way fit into my price chart of the Indian SUV scenario.

L>R: Mahindra Commander, Gypsy, Ford Endeavor, Tata Safari, Renault Duster, Ford Ecosport & Hyundai i20 Active (Prices in Rs.-Lacs)

The graph here points out:

1.      Mahindra Commanders and Gyspys were the only options in the early 90s. SUVs really took off in the late 90s, the prices kept on increasing with demand. Tata Safari and Ford Endeavor were the rage back then in their times. Their era saw SUVs becoming the niche fashion statements with rising prices.

2.      With the advent of the Renault Duster, SUVs were seemingly affordable again. There needn’t be a real SUV, something that looked like one was good enough. The Duster cracked this market formula: a car that looked like a SUV at a decent price was the name of the game. We realized that the Indian SUV market was more about looks and affordability than off-roading. The industry was quick to see this trend and the result was the Ford Ecosport, BMW X1, Premier Rio, etc. Even Mahindra made an attempt to joke around with ‘Quanto’.Somehow, i-20 Active/iX35 seem to be trying to fit into this SUV equation.

Don’t get carried away by my graph here. The i20 Active is not a SUV. And neither are the Ford Ecosport and the Renault Duster pure blood SUVs for that matter. At 10L+, i-20 Active is not a value proposition either. The Diesel 1.4L motor I drove is no hyper-performance machinery. It just has an above average acceleration and torque, possibly a tad lesser than what is expected at its 10L+ price tag. The petrol twin with half the torque would be miserable, I’m sure. My dream would be get that Verna 1.6 motor here and create a maniacal racing machine. Also, whatever price you may pay, you cannot escape the fact that this is just a cool hatchback. Don’t get me wrong, but this beauty does not feel as planted on the road when it jumps around a bump or when you try to steer it harshly. Agreed, it is better than most hatchbacks, but the point I am coming to is that is in spite of its spruced up suspension and beefed up tires, it cannot match a Honda City or a Ford Ecosport when it comes to stability. Again, I cannot refrain to consider these cars as competition, though a class above - thanks to the price.

Conclusion

Yet, I love this car and would recommend it to the right category of people. Under-powered: umm. Not really, Pricey, yes. But the looks and features will sweep you away. Make no mistake; this is eventually a lifestyle vehicle. If you want to haul a family of 5 with three suitcases, go for the Amaze/Dzire category. If you are one (or two) who drive(s) to work, has(have) occasional company, like to be in a feel good environment and make heads turn; look no further. The i20 Active pampers you, the looks, features and interiors may put cars a league or two above it to shame (Volkwagen Vento, Toyota Corolla: do you get the hint??) and it comes with that Hyundai tag: great quality and low cost of ownership guaranteed. Also, this vehicle will not age. While sitting in a 3 year old Swift, Corolla or Figo cabin makes you feel ancient, a 10 year old Civic’s cabin still feels like a modern aircraft cockpit. Same would be the case with the i-20 Active’s interiors several years down the line. It is not just following the current trend, it is defining the future.

(1)    
The incident I refer to pertains to a conversation with a gentleman where I accidentally mentioned mileage of Marutis. However, he plainly refuted my figure, the state of Indian roads, driving conditions and quite possibly the calorific value of fuel. He was adamant about the fact that his Maruti Swift petrol got him a mileage of 29kmpl in peak traffic, and he expressed concern about his old Ford Fiesta which gave a ‘measly’ mileage of 25kmpl. My attempts to reason with him to admit to a more scientific and factual figure resulted in a mini-skirmish, with me eventually walking away from the maniacal battle- leaving the fellow proud of his fleet and laughing away to glory. Victorious, he went on to declare that all other car owners on the planet managing a mileage in the range of 10-18 kmpl were brainless baboons and ought to take a lesson from him on driving (or exaggerating).

Insanity: riding the RC 390

Insanity..The Honda CBR whines, the Apache purrs, but the KTM;-The KTM RC 390 growls and roars: angrily, impatiently and mercilessly. The reason why I write so much about the sound is that it is a distinct one and takes a while to get used to. Initially it makes you believe that there are some cannons trying to make themselves heard in midst of rapid fire from Kalashnikovs and M16 carbines. Not a rattle, definitely not a whine, more close to roars from different members of the feline family at the same moment.

The instrument cluster seems rudimentary. Having said that, it would be criminal to not mention that the overall quality is top-notch and gives a rich feel. You mount the bike, and you know you have done so for a menacing ride. Certainly you are not out to buy onions and potatoes for the dwindling reserves at home. The posture is the blend of an off-roader and a street racer.

The engine growls when you open the throttle and as you release the clutch deftly, you are suddenly yanked a couple of yards ahead; as if propelled by a grenade explosion. The acceleration is barbaric. A first experience for the usual Indian bikers: suddenly migrating from a 'mileage kitna deti hai' to the mini-superbike league. You can hear the angry explosions in that engine pushing you to any speeds of your liking in fraction of seconds. The discs coupled with ABS brings you to the momentum of your liking in similar times as well. Certainly something that has been beyond the imagination of people who have experience with bikes ranging from 100-500CC. For the money you pay for this motorcycle, you get more than its worth when it comes to performance.

After riding the KTM, I was silent for a while. So silent that some people mistook me for Manmohan Singh. For after riding the evil orange machine, I was bothered by some menacing drum beaters in vicinity.. Later I realized that the noise was just the thumping of my heart. 

Such is the exhilaration associated with the RC390 experience. However; like a drug, it does wear off in time... I say so because I was quickly brought back to reality by the analytical conclusion of the brain when that thing called practicality comes into picture. A couple of places where certain questions rose:

1. Looks: Good lord! Why does it have to be only orange/black? Plus, devilish looks are fine, but does it actually look as expensive as it actually is? Why did they not make it different from its 200CC sibling? The dual headlamps and simple instrumentation remind me of the early 90s.

2. Ride quality: This is something debatable. Trust me, this is a machine bred for extreme performance. Ride quality was never the prominent things in its DNA. Yet, when I am to go for a long drive, would I still pick the KTM over a Honda? Nyope.. Also, I don't see the point of torturing my wife on that small seat.

3. Power delivery: Reiterating again- the power delivery is brutal. You get those bursts of power. Yet the delivery is not at all smooth. Its like whack! bang! boom! Explosions. Definitely not a Yamaha or a Honda which reminds you a rocket being launched in a scientifically smooth manner.

To conclude, the KTM is the best performance machine that your money can buy. But that said, it is still an expensive toy. One spending that kind of money may think of compromising on the brutal performance and go for the CBR250/300 just to get that 'big bike' experience and the more comfortable, suave and saner way of riding.